We have come to Rome, not on our own this time, but with our three children, their partners and six grandchildren, a small party of 14. Yes, it is literally a travelling circus, but a very fun one. We’ve come to Rome to catch our breath and get in the time zone, before returning to Villa Podere Brogi. It was at this beautiful Tuscan villa we celebrated Tim’s 60th birthday several years ago, pre grandchildren.

While we are in Rome we are keen to show the older grandkids some of the sights. So here’s a three day itinerary of the highlights while allowing plenty of down time by the pool and gelato for the little ones, who mostly are oblivious to where they are!

When is the best time to visit Rome?

There’s not really a bad time to visit Rome, unless you want to avoid the crowds and heat, so visit in the winter or shoulder seasons. We chose the first two weeks of September as the European summers over the last few years have been blistering hot, not good for little people.

Where to Stay in Rome?

We’ve visited Rome many times and we’ve always gravitated to the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel. It’s 15 minutes for the hustle and bustle of the Rome’s historic centre.

We love it because you get the best of both worlds. You can see the sights and get the vibe of the city, but when you have had enough of the crowds you can retreat to the sanctuary of the hotel. You still feel connected as you get magnificent views, overlooking the city. The hotel is very roomy so perfect for kids. As well as a very large swimming pool, (plus two children’s pools) there are large grassed areas for play. It’s also one of the few hotels in Rome that have family rooms (two adjoining rooms connected). They are much larger than your typical European hotel room.

The hotel runs a regular free shuttle into the heart of the city. They have kids car seats, but are very happy to install your own and will ensure they are in the van when you are picked you up. Taxis are also plentiful at the hotel. Click here to read more about the Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel

Things to be aware of in Rome

Book tickets: Depending what days of the week you are visiting, remember to check the attractions you want to see to make sure they are open. For example, on some Wednesdays the Pope gathers an audience at St. Peter’s Square. This is a unique thing to see, but it does mean that touring the Basilica won’t be an option until the afternoon.

I highly recommend securing tickets in advance for big-ticket attractions like the Colosseum and Vatican as it can reduce queuing, particularly if you have young ones with you.

Holy Year in Rome 2025: If you are visiting Italy soon you will notice there’s a lot of maintenance and scaffolding on many of the major sites, for example in Saint Peter’s Basilica. This is because 2025 is the Jubilee Year, which means it’s a Holy Year in Rome and the Vatican City. Typically, it occurs every 25 years. It’s a year of spiritual renewal for Catholics. Millions of pilgrims will flock to Rome and other Italian holy sites, so Italy will be busy.

Dress appropriately for religious sites: Covering your shoulders and avoiding anything too short.

Watch out for pickpockets:  Stay vigilant, especially in crowded areas.

Drink plenty of water: Rome can get hot and humid, especially in the summer months, so be sure to stay hydrated by carrying a water bottle with you.

Siesta time: Many shops and businesses in Rome observe a siesta period in the afternoon, typically between 1:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. when they close.

Where to eat in Rome?

You will find your own favourite retaurants in this gastromonic city, but one of our most liked restaurants is Taverna Trilussa, in Trastevere. We’ve eaten here multiple time and enjoyed it immensely. The interior is interesting with legs of cured prosciutto and a fridge bursting with Tiramasu. The courtyard is also delightful on a balmy summers evening. Their Amatriciana is a favouite dish and we love the rustic way they serve it in the pan it was cooked in.

The other restaurant we adore is Babette, near Pizza del Popolo. The restaurant has a small inside area or you can sit in the charming courtyard, with shade cover from the sun. Everything we have eaten there has been prepared with love, using the freshest ingredients. Its superb. Try the gazpacho which is made with tomato, and watermelon.

The Rome Cavalieri also has exceptional food. Their breakfasts for the family are next level, with a myriad of options,  great poolsside food, and a restaurant serving lunch and dinner near the pool.

Day 1 in Rome

When I’m on holiday, the first few days are always a bit manic as I try and squeeze in as much as I can, but we’re with kids so the tempo will be different. So, today we will visit the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Monument of Victor Emmanuel II.

Colosseum and Roman Forum

The Colosseum and Roman Forum were the first glimpse of ancient Rome, for our six year old grandson, Brooklyn. We were up early and had tickets for 8.30 am to avoid the crowds and  the blistering heat. He is smart and inquisitive with many questions and the delight on his face as he explored this wonder of the world was priceless. Taking photos with his instamatic camera were as rewarding for me, as it was for him.

There are two ways you can see the Colosseum and Roman Forum. Purchase a fast pass entry ticket  or if you prefer a guided tour, this ticket is for you.

The Colosseum is the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built and could seat up to 80,000 people. It opened in 80 AD, about 1950 years ago. Its original purpose was to serve as a marketplace, but it eventually out grew the space for day-to day shopping and became a public meeting place. Then, it became a venue for entertainment, including the famous gladiator flights. The Roman Forum is adjacent to the Colosseum and was predominately a marketplace, but sadly in ruins now.

It’s not as hard travelling with little ones as it might seem. Brooklyn’s three year old sister Belle was in a pram, allowing the family preferential treatment to use the lift and jump the queues.

You could spend anywhere from two to four hours at the Colosseum, before going onto the Roman Forum.

Monument of Victor Emmanuel II

Close to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum is the monument dedicated to Italy’s first King, Victor Emmanuel II (who is presently buried in the Pantheon). He became King after Italy was unified. It’s called the Monument of Victor Emmanuel II, or Altar of the Fatherland, and it’s set between Piazza Venezia and Capitoline Hill (where the Colosseum is).

It’s hard to miss with its two bronze statues and white exterior. Inside, is a museum, and it also offers some of the best views of Rome. You can also get tickets to the rooftop, which is reached via elevator, for more views of the city.

Now time to head back to the Rome Cavalieri, for a little time poolside.

Day 2 in Rome

Three wonderful sites to see today, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, all within easy walking distance from each other.

Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of the best preserved buildings from ancient Roman times. It was originally a Roman Temple and since 609 AD is has been a Catholic Church (Basilica of St Mary and the Martyrs).

Trevi Fountain

One of the most iconic sites in Rome is the Trevi Fountain. It’s pretty much always crowded, but first thing in the morning or late in the day will give you a better chance of getting that great photo.

It’s famous for its intricate artwork decorated in the Baroque style. Oceanus is depicted majestically riding a shell-shaped chariot, drawn by two seahorses and guided by two tritons. The contrasting demeanor of the horses, one calm and the other agitated, symbolizes the varying moods of the seas and rivers, capturing the unpredictable nature of water.

The myth of the Trevi Fountain is if you throw a coin in you will return to Rome, if you throw two coins, you will fall in love with an Italian, and if you throw three coins, you will marry the Italian you met.

Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps have little or no reference to Spain other than they took they their name from the nearby Spanish Square (Piazza di Spagna).

They were designed in 1723 by  an Italian architect, Francesco De Sanctis and funded by a French Diplomat, Stefano Gueffier.  They were built to link the Spanish Embassy and the Trinita Dei Monti, a French Monastery Church, both located above the steps.

Climb the 135 stairs, built in Rococo style and enjoy the views from the top.

Day 3 in Rome

The third day in Rome is all about the Vatican City, and the neighbourhood of Trastevere.

Vatican City

The Vatican City is Headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church and is home to the Pope. It has a three kilometre city border and the entire city is less than one eighth the size of Central Park , NY. It is the smallest country in the world, with the lowest birth rate.

We visited the Basilica, however, Brooklyn was quite overwhelmed with it’s magnitude and statues inside. However, he did enjoy the outside areas, postshop and time looking for the Pope’s apartment.

There’s also the Gardens of Vatican City, home to a peaceful oasis full of fountains, sculptures, and rare plants.

While it is great to wander around the Vatican City there are some”must sees” like the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums and they require entry tickets.  My recommendation would be Fast Track the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel Guided Tour.

You will get a lot more out of the tours and make your visit more memorable

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is one of the most beautiful squares in Rome. It’s central fountain is called La Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, meaning the Fountain of the Four Rivers. It has four statues representing the Danube, Ganges, Nile, and Rio de la Plata Rivers. These are the most important rivers of the continents where Christianity had spread.

Close to the Piazza is the Fontana dei Libri (Fountain of the Books). It’s a small fountain pressed into the wall on a street called Via degli Staderar.

Trastevere

From Piazza Navona, walk toward the neighbourhood of Trastevere, which is one of my favourite areas of Rome. Cross the river at the charming bridge, Ponte Garibaldi.

This is a lovely, historic neighbourhood with working class roots and real character.

Get lost in the myriad of the narrow cobbled streets, where the buildings are covered in vines. Nona’s can often be seen peering out their windows and on one occasion we saw the store keeper put groceries in a basket, and she hoisted to her home by a pulley system. My other memorable moment in Trastevere was entering a church only to find mass was in progress. We sat and listened to the small congregation of nuns singing, took communion, then continued our evening of delicious food and wine.

I hope you love Rome as much as our family did. While the little bambina’s enjoyed the gelato, pasta and swimming pool, the older kids got a good taste of ancient Rome, and they all loved being together.