Queen Charlotte Sound

I’ve recently hiked the Queen Charlotte Track. I’m trying to tick off some of New Zealand’s great outdoors experiences while I can, but I’m always inspired by other walkers and cyclists I’ve encountered. Many are considerably older than I am, giving me great hope!

For those of you not in the know, the Queen Charlotte track is a 71 kilometre walking track in New Zealand’s Marlborough Sounds, at the top of the South Island. The walk runs between between the Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sound. The gateway to this walk, is Picton.

The Queen Charlotte Track is 71km

Before I get into my great experience, I just thought I would mention there are many different ways to tackle this walk.

1. Freedom walking- you camp at the Department of Conservation (DOC) camp grounds. It’s a good option for the tough or budget minded. You book your own water taxis, carry your own gear, cook your own meals and follow the signs along the track. Don’t forget to purchase your QCTLC pass. It’s the Queen Charlotte Track Land Co-operative pass, required because of the unique partnership between DOC, the Marlborough District Council and private land owners.

2. Self- guided walk – engage with a tour operator and they will book your accommodation, transport etc. They will arrange to transport your luggage from one destination to the next, but you will walk on your own, at your own pace. Your tour operator should provide your QCTLC pass.

3. Guided walk- engage with a tour operator who will plan and book your accommodation and transport. They will transport your luggage from one destination to the next. All  meals are catered for. You will be with a group of walkers and will have a guide with you at all times. The guide will walk with you sharing local knowledge and history about the area. They will support the group in any way necessary. Your tour operator will provide your QCTLC pass.

4. Biking-you can also bike the Queen Charlotte track. It’s a challenging ride, grade 3-5. There are steep inclines, narrow tracks and numerous hazards, including dangerous drop-offs, sharp corners and difficult obstacles. It’s necessary to carry your bike over some sections. Technical biking skills are essential. Don’t forget to purchase your QCTLC pass.

It’s no surprise we chose to do the Queen Charlotte track, guided, with one of a number of operators, Tuatara Tours. It was easy. All I did was make a phone call and everything was organised, including transport, accommodation, a clothing list, meeting times and much more. Marcus, our guide was great.

Queen Charlotte Track Day 1 – Ships Cove to Endeavour Inlet -17 km

With an early morning start, we stayed over-night in Picton, meeting our guide, Marcus, and the rest of our group at the main pier in Picton. It is from here, the water taxis depart making deliveries to the secluded bays and dropping walkers off. Our water taxi took us up the Queen Charlotte Sound, disembarking at Ships Cove.

The water taxi took us from Picton to the start of the track at Ship’s Cove

Here is a map of the Queen Charlotte track

Here we meet our first Weka. These naughty, flightless birds love nothing more that stealing food and anything else they can get their beaks on.

Ship’s Cove was a favourite anchorage of the explorer, Captain Cook in the 1770s. He visited it five times while navigating the globe. At Ship’s Cove there are plaques to record his adventures.

Our 17 kilometre walk from Ship’s Cove to Endeavour Inlet started with a steep incline to 250 metres above sea level, high above Resolution Bay. Walking poles made the inclines and declines must easier and I highly recommend them. From here the views of the sounds were exceptional. We walked through virgin beech forests and bush, as we made our way to Endeavour Inlet. As we descended to sea level we got our first glimpses of Furneaux Lodge, our accommodation for the first night.

Furneaux Lodge is a lovely, historic, old lady. The main lodge, bar and dining room front the ocean while the chalets are dotted around the property in the bush providing seclusion and privacy.

Our first night’s accommodation was at the historic Furneaux Lodge

The lodge reached world headlines, for all the wrong reasons in 1998. Ben Smart and Olivia Hope, two young New Zealanders, disappeared in the early hours of the morning on New Year’s Day, 1 January 1998. The two friends had been celebrating on New Year’s Eve at Furneaux Lodge with other partygoers.

At around 4 am, as the celebrations wound down, the duo returned to the yacht they had hired, only to find others had taken their berths. So they boarded a passing water-taxi, driven by Furneaux Lodge’s bartender Guy Wallace. At the time, Wallace had three other passengers on board, including a man by the name of Scott Watson, who become crucial to the police investigation. Watson offered the pair a place to sleep on his yacht, and Wallace let Smart and Hope off with Watson. Then he dropped the two other passengers off at their bach. This was the last time Smart and Hope were seen. Watson was convicted of their murder and has spent 25 years in prison, but the bodies have never been found.

Our stay at Furneaux Lodge the was pleasant and we enjoying a delicious evening meal, of cod and prawn ravioli.

Delicious fresh cod with prawn ravioli

Queen Charotte Track Day 2 – Endeavour Inlet to Punga Cove -11.5 km

We had a leisurely morning at Furneaux as the walk to Punga Cove was only 11 kilometres. At the beginning of the walk we made a short detour to what is believed to be one of the oldest Rimu trees in New Zealand. It’s estimated to be over 1,000 years old.

We made a detour to this Rimu tree, believed to be over 1,000 years old

The walk was easy and predominately coastal, mostly through regenerating native bush. Bell birds and fantails provided delightful birdsong along the way. We passed over a small swing bridge at the head of Endeavour Inlet, then continued onto Big Bay and finally Punga Cove. Mahana Lodge is in the cove, our accommodation for the night. It is no surprise the inlet is named Punga Cove as the native punga fern adorn the hillside, creating a spectacular intense green coverage.

Punga trees are prolific at Punga Cove, were we spent our second night

Upon arrival to the lodge we sat on the jetty enjoying drinks and watching the local string rays bask in the late afternoon sun. Punga Cove rises steeply from the sea, with chalets dotted up the hill. The restaurant is also up the hill, providing glorious view of the inlet.

Punga Cove

While we enjoyed a well earned drink on the jetty, the sting rays basked in the sun

Again the menu showcased the local produce, dinning on large green lipped mussels and fish.

The delicious green lipped mussels are farmed in the Sounds

Queen Charlotte Track Day 3 – Punga Cove to the Portage -28.5 km

Day three was the most challenging day of the walk, clocking up 28.5 kilometres. We left Punga Cove early, climbing to over 400 metres, following the ridgeline between Punga Cove and the Portage Hotel. At one point we did a detour to a lookout. Despite adding additional kilometres to an already exhausting day, the vista was well worth it.

Once we were on the ridgeline the views were tremendous and we could see both the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. The highest point on the track was overlooking the Bay of Many Coves. This spectacular bay literally has many coves. Nestled in one of the coves is the Bay of Many Coves Resort. Walkers can use this luxury accommodation as a base when walking the Queen Charlotte track, catching a water taxi to start of each section of the track.

The ridge between the Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sound provided spectacular views

We walked though regenerated bush, beech forest, manuka and other areas of scrub where the wild boars frequented. Their poos were huge. Thankfully, I didn’t see a boar, but our guide Marcus did.

Regenerated bush with fantails and bellbirds

Enjoying a drink after our long 28 km walk to The Portage

The Portage at dusk

For anyone feeling like a day’s rest, a boat ride is optional to the next destination.

Queen Charlotte Track Day 4 – Portage Hotel to Anakiwa -21km

On route to Anikiwa

Farewelling the Portage, we ascended the ridgeline once again, enjoying stunning views back towards Picton and the turquoise waters of the Kenepuru Sound and Queen Charlotte. The track eventually opened up to farmland, before we stopped for a last cup of tea in the picturesque Davies Bay. As we started walking the last few kilometres towards Anakiwa, I knew we were coming back to civilization, as my phone started pinging with text messages.

The walk was magnificent and I felt a real sense of achievement. I’d really explored the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds, and stayed at three of the Sound’s iconic lodges, Furneaux Lodge, Punga Cove and The Portage.

At Anakiwa Jetty we caught the water taxi back to Picton.

Our last cup of tea at Davis bay before finishing the walk

Other Kiwi walking experiences:

Hollyford Track