En route to Iceland, aboard a Seabourn Cruise, we stopped in the Orkney Islands.
I wouldn’t have chosen the Orkney Islands as a destination; however, I’m pleased I’ve had a glimpse of these remote islands, and I’m in awe of the isolation Orkney Islanders enjoy.
This archipelago of approximately 70 islands is off the north-eastern tip of mainland Scotland. They are an incredible tapestry of ancient Viking history, dramatic sea cliffs, wildllife and world-class archaeological wonders. It was an insight into life in remote islands, with a harsh climate and rich history. The grave sites tell stories, but the small communities on the Orkneys thrive.
Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Islands, is located on the largest island in the archipelago, which is simply called The Mainland. It’s the geographical heart of the Orkneys and connects the northern and southern islands by ferry networks and causeways.
Kirkwall – The capital of the Orkney Islands
We arrived at the port of Kirkwall, surrounded by fishing boats. High-quality brown crab, lobster, scallops, and langoustine are caught in the Orkney and shipped from Kirkwall to markets across Europe and beyond.
We spent the day exploring the narrow streets of Kirkwall, then venturing further afield.
Dominating the skyline in Kirkwall is St. Magnus Cathedral. It’s a spectacular medieval masterpiece known as the “Light in the North.” Founded in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald in honour of his martyred uncle, Magnus.
St Magnus Cathedral is one of Scotland’s most remarkable medieval buildings. Built in striking red and yellow sandstone, it glows warmly in the northern light. Inside, soaring Romanesque arches, ancient gravestones and quiet chapels reveal more than 850 years of history. Remarkably, it’s the only Scottish cathedral to survive the 16th-century Reformation entirely intact, remaining the magnificent historic heart of Orkney today.
After exploring Kirkwall, we headed south to the charming maritime village of St Margaret’s Hope, saw the historic WWII Churchill Barriers and learned about the moving story associated with the Italian Chapel.
St Margaret’s Hope
St Margaret’s Hope (affectionately known to locals simply as The Hope). It’s a historic village nestled in a sheltered bay on the island of South Ronaldsay. It’s the third-largest settlement in the Orkney Islands, after Kirkwall and Stromness, yet it is very small.
The historic WWII Churchill Barriers
While we were exploring the Orkneys, we crossed several of Churchill’s Barriers. These are a series of four massive concrete causeways. They serve a dual purpose. They were a critical piece of World War II naval history, and they now connect the islands.
Orkney Mainland is connected to the southern islands of Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray, and South Ronaldsay by the causeways.
The reason the barriers were built was that on the night of October 14, 1939, a German submarine managed to navigate through the Kirk Sound and fired torpedoes at the battleship HMS Royal Oak, and sank it. A total of 835 British sailors lost their lives. This prompted Prime Minister Winston Churchill to create an impenetrable defence system.
Construction began in 1940. Engineers had to seal off four deep, fast-flowing marine channels. The project faced a massive labour shortage. So the government brought in over 1,200 Italian prisoners of war (POWs) captured during the North African campaign.
The Italian Chapel
The presence of these Italian POWs left an incredible, unexpected cultural legacy on Orkney. They were given permission to build a place of worship, so the prisoners welded two Nissen huts (corrugated steel shelters) together.
Led by a brilliant artist, Domenico Chiocchetti, they used scrap metal, leftover concrete from the barriers, and intricate hand-painting to transform the basic steel structure into a breathtaking, beautiful masterpiece known as The Italian Chapel. Located on Lamb Holm next to Barrier 1, it remains one of Orkney’s most visited and emotionally moving landmarks.
The Churchill Barriers were officially opened on May 12, 1945, just days after the war in Europe ended. While they never saw military action, they completely revolutionised life in the southern islands.
Getting around
If you are spending time in the Orkneys, the best way to get around is by renting a car. Having your own vehicle gives you freedom to explore remote coastal tracks, escape the tour buses, and travel at your own pace. The main islands are seamlessly connected by excellent, smooth roads and a highly reliable network of inter-island car ferries managed by the Orkney Islands Council.
Enjoy the wilderness, and if you are a reader, tap into ‘The Killing Stones’ by author Ann Cleeves. She was on our Seabourn Cruise as a guest and conversationalist. To educate the guests about the Orkney Islands, she talked about her latest book, ‘The Killing Stones‘, set in the Orkney Islands. She’s an award-winning British crime writer. Having met her and chatted to her on board, I read her novel and thoroughly enjoyed it. This page-turning thriller gave me a greater understanding of this very remote archipelago of islands.